Guide we used:
Japan
Guide: https://www.justonecookbook.com/ultimate-travel-guide-to-tokyo
Tokyo:
Day1
Made it with 2 hr delay in flight due to mechanical maintenance.
One of the first surprises was how quiet everything was. The subway, the bus, the stations - no one talked or made any noise. Also there are so many signs and directions everywhere. Everything is so clear, precise, and orderly. So much safety built in like emergency stop button for subway and arrows directing which side people should go up or down.
Hamaya:
Special shisosio soba. Special oyster and clam oil sio ramen.
Our place was small, but it was very efficient use of space and very clean. It had a bidet! - nice to sit on a warm toilet haha!
Day 2
We had jetlag, so woke up at 4a and laid in bed. We decided to go to fish market. Got there too late for the auction (end 6:30a), but we got to eat some really fresh sushi at the restaurant area here:
https://maps.google.com/?cid=11798204809531068420&entry=gps
Sushi dai was completely booked when we got there, but this restaurant had no line! We had the chef choice 10 nigiri/sushi (4,950 yen) and donburi (rice with uni, fatty tuna, and roe 5,500 yen). My favorite was the uni (sea urchin) and otoro (fatty tuna belly) and Alan's was the salmon roe. The roe was a little too salty and fishy for me. The sardine was also a bit too fishy. And sadly my nose was a little stuffed so my sense of taste wasn't the best. Yet, it was still very delicious. Mmmmm, the uni was so creamy and melt in my mouth. We never had sushi for breakfast before, but that was awesome!
To Senso-Ji temple:
Front gate lantern is 1500lb.
Hozo-mon gate, also for storage of treasures for the Senso-Ji temple.
Lantern at gate is 900lb. "Thunder gate and incense vat". People will apply the smoke to body part needing healing.
Through Nakamise-dori street with small shops, traditional items.
Doves are messengers of goddess compassion.
Omikuji: pray, and pull out answer from one of the drawers.
Tokyo skytree:
Tallest stand-alone tower in the world.
450m observation hall. Going up to 350m is sufficient. Upper deck too hot and not much different.
Buildings far as the eye can see: and not just small buildings, but big ones too!.... It's amazing to see the most populus city in the world from high up.
Tokyo: 38 mill
Shanghai: 25 mill
New York: 19 mill
Clear day so we could see Mt. Fuji!
Ueno park:
We had lunch at ueno park Shinobazuno pond. There's a big food street/area outside of the park called Ameyoko market so we got take out there. But also someone was selling grilled squid near the pond. It was pleasant to eat by the pond. We then walked through the park to the art museum and reflection fountain. Didn't feel like going to the museum or zoo in the park. The leaves seemed like they were mostly done changing color too. Maybe spring with flowers would be prettier, but it was still a pleasant stroll.
Sanbaka restaurant dinner: 5 course:
1)
-Ohitashi and komatsuna (greens) and chrysanthemum flowers.
-Shungiku, mustard green with sesame dressing, and fish.
-Meat and potatoes (traditional Japanese food).
2) Yellowtail, sea bass, and snapper sashimi.
3) Tuna marinated in soy sauce on lotus root, cooked with sake. Topped with asparagus greens. Too salty overall.
4) Chawanmushi: Egg custard with dashi (soup stock), bonito, clam, seaweed. Yummy, like a soup.
5) Fermented soy beans, mascarpone cheese, nato. Kind of bland.
Akihabara:
So confused what's pop-up space and ensemble stars store??!!
Reminded me of time square, but it was all about anime!
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| A lot of claw machines, sell electronics. Not pictured: a lot of maid cafes (people dressed up) |
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| Making Ramen |
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| Cat cafe. Ah didn't get to go to Owl Cafe (real owls!) |
Day 3:
Meiji Jingu:
Commemorate emperor Meiji and empress Shoken. Where they are buried.
1868 Meiji Restoration proclaimed Charter Path in Five Articles as new guidelines for building Japan as Japan changed from isolation policy of Edo Era to more Eastern influences. The Oath emphasized importance of making decisions based on general discussion, pursuing one's calling, uniting hearts to develop the nation, break harmful practices and gather knowledge from all over the world.
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| Chrysanthemum festival display |
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| Bonsai Chrysanthemum display |
Wine vs sake
Emperor tried incorporating western culture such as cutting his topknot, donning western clothing, and enjoyed wine.
Sake given up to dieties every year.
Shinjuku Gyoen national garden:
Previously belonged to the Edo Naito family, then transfered to the Imperial family. Has English landscape, French formal, and Traditional Japanese garden styles. 1949 opened as national garden.
Greenhouse: preserve seeds, orchids, Jacob's ladder.
Chrysanthemum festival still on display! Their national flower.
Tried to go to East gardens of imperial palace but found it was closed on Fridays! Google maps failed us! Also we tried booking Imperial palace tour 1 Mo in advance when it opened, but even 30min after website opened, it was all booked!
Shibuya crossing: largest crossing in the world!
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| It was raining, so not as big a spectacle |
Sushi Tomi:
Nigiri set 2500 yen. Great sushi! Hole in the wall, traditional sit on mat if you go upstairs. We came at 5p and had the whole upstairs (small area) to ourselves. AB tried sake too.
Day 4: Hakone
Known for: onsen-manju (red bean bun), kamaboko (fish cake), Manju: flour bun with filling, red bean bread (anpan) from Yanagi Bakery. Didn't get to see Odawara castle and Yanagiya Bakery 柳屋ベーカリnearby. Wood mosaic.
We took Metro to Tokyo station, got the shinkansen (bullet train) pass at a machine. We got bento lunches for breakfast on the train.
The bullet train was so fast and smooth! And there was a good clear view of Mt Fuji. Stopped at Otowara station, Hakone. Bought hakone free pass so all transport in Hakone is free for 2 days for 5000 yen (only 2 or 3 days options available) - turns out some buses still aren't included in the pass. We took train to Hakone-Yomoto station (can't get on the express train with Hakone pass), then another 40min train to Gora. That was such a steep ride, requiring multiple track changes.
Gora:
Open air museum
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| Silliness |
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| Free hot spring foot soak |
Picasso exhibit: Jacqueline portraits. Married when he was 80, she was 34.
Took cablecar to Sounzan, but then found it out was too windy so the Ropeway was closed! Ah wish they told us when we were in Gora before we squeezed into a cablecar and slowly made our way up the mountain to Sounzan! We decided to take the alternative route to Owakudani: take bus to K and then walk up 30min to Owakudani. We had to wait 45 min for the bus be there first one was too full and the line too long. Thankfully when we walked, it only took 15min and we passed so many cars (traffic).
Owakudani:
We were so fortunate that when we got there, the clouds cleared and we got the most beautiful view of Mt Fuji! Thank God! Beautiful creation!
Sulfer fumes coming out of the Owakudani volcano:
The black eggs up there were interesting... But they tasted like regular eggs. The shells turn black because they cook them in the volcano and the sulfur changes the egg shell black.
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| Most delicious black curry bun on left (maybe worked up an appetite walking up mt). R: black sulfur eggs. |
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| These eggs are supposed to add 7 more years to my life. :D |
We walked and then took the bus down to lake Ashi.
Lake Ashi:
The lake itself was pretty, but nothing special. The fun part was taking the pirate ship to the Southeast shore.
I took too long in the gift shop and walked along the ancient forest trail. But then it was too late so we took the express R bus back to Halone-Yomoto station, train back to odawara, and then bullet train back to Tokyo. Had a nice meal at Casual Tappen (teppenyaki place).
Day 5 Kyoto: Matcha capital, eat desserts.
Imperial palace and Garden:
Previously capital of Japan for 500+ years until 1869 Emperor Meiji moved it to Tokyo.
Kan-in-no-miya residence, now visitor center: lived here during Edo period. Kujo pond and tea ceremony house.
Imperial palace was destroyed by so many fires. And emperor had to live with noble families.
Can visit the palace for free on certain days via the seishomon gate (for servants).
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| Carriage porch for courtiers. |
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| Waiting Rooms |
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New carriage porch (now emperor needs a bigger one for carriage and has to enter from south per tradition).
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| Shinshinden (Hall for state ceremonies), where emperora were enthroned. |
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| Shukoden (Hall of the sacred mirror): mirror for enthronement ceremony kept. |
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| Seiryoden (Hall for rites and rituals): also where emperor lived for a bit. |
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| Kogosho: imperial meetings |
Oikeniwa Garden: so serene.
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| Otsunegpten- imperial residential palace. |
Couldn't get into Ruriki-on temple bc we didn't have reservation. But maple walk beautiful.
Jisho-ji temple:
Beautiful maples
So many yummy snacks on the walk there.
Philosophers path on the way to Nanzen-ji temple.
Too late to go into Nanzenji temple. But pretty to look at from the outside.
Took train to Fushimi Inari Taisha:
So many beautiful red gates-1000 of them! Built in 1633 with no nails. 1/2 mile hike up hill, then 1 hr to top (we didn't go to top). At night the gates were lit, made for interesting experience. Names of businesses that sponsored the gate on back. Initially dedicated to Inari, god of crop and business and fox statues bc messenger of Inari.
Day 6
Kinkaku-ji temple
Getting there was confusing. From the Kitaoji stop of the northsouth subway line, you have to go to blue platform underground to catch the bus (203, 204, or 205) to the temple. Follow the signs for bus and blue platform. We got to the temple before 9a and there was already a line to go in.
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| These statues reminded me of the offering statues in Zelda |
Most important rock zen garden.
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| Smaller than I expected. Only 15 rocks. Why in the formation? No one knows... |
Took trains not on our pass to get to Ashalawara.
Sooooo crowded.
The street in front had a ton of stalls and restaurants, but there were so many people, every one of them required a wait.
Yudofu takemura: fortunately only waited 2 min to be seated because someone just happened to leave.
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| Tofu is their specialty |
We found one tofu place a little less conspicuous on that street, and managed to be seated with 2min wait. We enjoyed a milticourse tofu meal. Interesting! We boiled our own tofu for 3 min. Ate tofu in lemon with miso. Had fried tofu ball (with wood ear, other things in it). Are another form of fried saucy tofu. And then enjoyed veggie tempura.
Arashiyama bamboo forest:
The forest itself was waaaaaay too crowded. Def try to go before 9 or else it's too crazy and hard to enjoy/take good pics. People mountain people sea.
Didn't get to ride in this train that Xiao recommended: Open train from ashi forest. https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3965.html
Arashiyama Monkey Park
Macaque monkeys, 200 in the park. You have to walk 20min uphill, but it's worth it! The monkeys are out in the open, and you can go inside to feed them.
Interesting facts:
Their faces, butts, and breasts are red because of blood vessels, but the babies have lighter faces. They amhave sharp canines, but babies have no teeth, and later their baby teeth get replaced. They have cool 5th finger that help them grab tree branches. They can store food in their cheek pouches like chipmunks. Staring at them is an act of aggression.
They eat soil to help with intestinal diseases.
There were some baby monkeys that were so cute! Hard to feed them because the bigger monkeys chased them away.
We checked out Nishika Market. Wow, so many stalls and food stalls! It was really hopping. We are a lot of random foods here and there like octopus balls, wagyu beef, grilled scallop, fried crab, matcha ice cream and mochi. Mochi was sooooo soft.
Of note the market closes at 5p...I think?
We then went to Gion district, didn't really see any geishas, and everything was very commercialized, but it's still fun to walk through the lantern street. The lanterns at Yasaka-jinja shrine was pretty, and there were people ringing the giant rope bells. But it was a relatively small temple.
We then went to eat conveyer belt sushi. It was AB's first time and he was very intrigued. We were stuffed!
Day 7
Kiyomizu-dera
Beautiful temple with a massive cemetery southwest of it.
There's a beautiful pogoda.
The temple itself has interesting architecture, being built onto a cliff. The autumn leaves made the whole place really brilliant.
Fushimi Inari Shrine
We decided to go climb Mt Inari. Wow, sooooo many red gates. It prob took an hour to climb to the top, and then another half hour down. Phew...it was kind of tiring. Throngs of people and kind of hard to get a good picture without people. Wish I had known there is a route back down towards bamboo forest. We went off path at Fushimi Inari Taisha and found our way to Kobogataki Falls, and then a bamboo forest farther south. Fun to wander away from the crowds.
Fukakusa Ramen Toriton
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| Yummy! A bit salty. |
Byodo-in
Beautiful temple surrounded by water with nice museum detailing interior decoration and meaning.
Gohan-ya: Izakaya $$
Online it said there's a set menu, but turned out no set menu and everything in Japanese. There was one server who spoke some English, so we asked for his recommendation, and then picked a few off the menu with Google translate camera. Should have stuck with picking off the pictures on Google. The ones we picked off the menu were so-so: radish greens salad, dried squid. The oden soup was pretty good. The recommendations were really good: sashimi (yellow tail, red snapper, flounder, salmon, tuna, 10 piece), grilled mackerel that was marinated in miso for a day.
Funny part was we didn't have a good idea of the price bc we asked for recommendations, and I estimated about 10,000 yen. When we got the receipt, I thought it said 29,000...we were so surprised but accepted it was our last fancy meal. Then turned out I missed the first number, so it was actually 8,290. Went from most expensive meal to prob the best deal. We were stuffed!
Day 8
The Osaka station is sooooo crazy. Walking for 10min, and we are still in the station. Also like Tokyo and Kyoto station, tons of shops and restaurants.
We had time for a brief stop at Osaka Castle (open too late for us to go in 9am):
