Mount Cook, New Zealand South Island

We drove to Mount Cook.  There were very few places to stay in Mount Cook Park.  We stayed in a hostel with shared bathrooms, but at least we had our own room.  

One day, we did the  Hooker valley trail.  It was a pretty easy hike, but with beautiful surroundings.  The Left mountain is Mt Sefton.  We started at 10:20AM.

Mueller lake outlook.  3 swinging bridges. After 2nd bridge, we finally saw Mt Cook!

We even saw an avalanche! (First heard loud rumble).  Mt Cook buttercup flowers

At 12:10 we arrived at Hooker lake (Mt Cook viewpoint).  We ate our sandwiches there.  At 1:15p head back.  At 3pm, we arrived back at the parking lot (super slow pace because I was feeling sick).

The Chamois (restaurant): Prob only reasonably priced food, good views, but too many flies. 

There were a few other trails in the area: Tasmin lake and glacier lookout: 15min up stairs. 

Gray/brown lake: glacial water with glacial "flour", ground up rocks. 

Blue water: settled glacial flour, but glacial particles still reflect and make water blue.

Green water means it is rain water. 

Tasman lake trail: about 30min one way, flat.

Tasman river: see icebergs up close! 

Kea point: 1hr rtrn, easy. View of Mt cook and Sefton. But glacier debris block view of Hooker Valley

On our way back to Christchurch, we drove to Lake Pukaki: Beautiful light blue glacial water of Pukaki Lake at Peters look out with Mt Aoraki/Cook in the background.

Lake Pukaki viewpoint: so many cairns!

We stayed our last night at Tekapo.  Church of the Good Shepherd is the most photographed church in NZ.  Beautiful lupines on Tekapo lake! 

Blue Lakes Eatery and Bar: lamb shank, salmon. 

Most difficulty in NZ: finding gas station that takes our credit card because they all require a pin which US credit cards done have. So we have to find a gas station that's mamned. Some restaurants have same issue donuts good to have cash. 

Te Anau, Milford Sound. New Zealand South Island

We decided to stay in Te Anau for 4 days -best decision ever! It was so quiet and scenic! It is the closest town to Milford Sound (1.5 hrs away) where you can get reasonable hotels. (Milford sound only has one super expensive and small lodge and $$$ overnight cruises).

One day, YW hiked Kepler Track (what NZ people call trails).  AB got sick, so couldn't join. :(  I took the 8:30am Kepler ferry to Brod bay for $25 nzd.  I arrived at Brod Bay at 8:45am.  At 9:45, Kepler limestone walk.  At 10:45am, I reached Luxmore Hut.

At noon, I reached the Luxmore Mt Summit, which was super windy!

At 12:30p, it was drizzling and super windy. I turned around close to Forest Burn Shelter.  

At 1:50pm, I got back to the Luxmore hut, and had a 15 min sandwich lunch in hut. It has a bathroom, water and stove. To stay, you must book months in advance. At 2:30pm, I reached the tree line, and at  limestone rock walk at 2:45p. At 4pm, I returned to Brod Bay. Pace: fast.

The 4:30pm Kepler ferry back to Te Anau had too many people, so ferry took 15 people, then came back for rest at 5pm. 

Ate at Ristorante Pizzaria Paradisio: seafood pasta (good, but not tender and needed salt), gnocchi (kinda sour, meh).  Had kiwi pavlova ice cream at The Anau Dairy

The next day, we rose early at 6am for our Milford Sound boat tour (Juicy cruise).  We saw a tui bird.  The drive from Te Anau is about 2 hours (1-way).  The drive is quite scenic.  

While waiting to go through a one way tunnel, we saw the kaka bird (NZ 🦜 parrot)

It was hard to find parking in free car park at Deep water basin parking lot (otherwise other parking lot is $10/hr), need to arrive super early. 

Fiordland has 14 Sounds.  Mitre peak is1,623m.  Hanging valley is "U" shaped. Deepest area. 

Sterling falls and Bridal veil falls.  There were 2 other falls that we got close to. 

Palisade falls: 5 Palisades bc 5 glacial periods through Milford Sound.

Seal rock: many adolescent seals rest there. 

Our cruise ship literally have us a "glacial facial." The captain drove under Sterling falls and drenched everyone on deck. Story goes, if you get this glacial water on your face, you get 10 years younger.

Bowen falls: the local hotel gets water from here. 

At Milford Sound, it rains more than 200 days/year mostly in spring; wettest place in the world. So we we're fortunate to get such a clear beautiful day! 

Fiords are mountains carved out by glacier and filled with sea water. Top 10m of it is freshwater, then below that's is the heavier salt water. It's a fragile environment because of the limited movement of marine life. A lot of debris was dumped by glacier. Top freshwater layer filters out light. Below 40m, there is limited life because it's too dark. Sea perch normally live at 600m deep live in the ocean but at Milford Sound, lives at 35m deep!

Milford shorewalk: short and sweet. Totally worth it but be aware of the sandflies that bite. 

There were many other trails in the Te Anau/Milford Sound region, of various lengths.  Such as the Gertrude saddle lookout: I wish I had more time to hike this but it was too snowy anyways. 

Lake Marion trailhead. 20 min Gantry lookout of Hollyford River.  We didn't do 3 hr hard hike to Lake Marion

Pops view (see where lake Marion should be).  Knobs flat: good view

Mirror lake 5min stroll: many ducks.  Eglinton valley failed jumping pic:

Eat at Bao Now: fish and beef cheek: yum!

One day, we did the Routeburn Key Summit hike: At 10:10am, we started at the divide parking lot.  So sad we didn't go yesterday when the weather was beautiful! The day we actually went was too rainy and foggy to see anything. 

At noon, we reached the top (super slow pace). YW did a 30 min nature walk and look out: too foggy to see anything, but interesting plants and moss.  It took 30-45 min to go down.

Long time ago, used to be glacier 500m above the top of the summit!!  There is an area called the Divide because when glacier reached the Divide, it split into 3: one to ocean, one to Eglinton valley, and one to Hollyford.

Lake Gun Nature Walk: many plaques about plants, animals and used in Moari culture. Eg fern, edible plant, galls (knobs) on trees. Eg lancewood: used for weapon/shelter. 

Fiordland Visitor center in Te Anau: only 60 kakapo birds survived -large flightless parrot. Transported to island without predators. Before there were many Takahe (flightless rail), then in 19th century only 4 sightings of bird, thought extinct, then found 7 in eastern Murehison Mtns, 1986 up to 181 birds with help of nitrogen fertilizer enriching tussock, preferred food. Deer compete for food. 

Wildlife bird sanctuary: saw takehe, kaka, baby kaka, baby diving duck, paradise shelduck

Olive cafe: delicious meal: Nz roasted lamb, Skippers chicken (chicken with salmon, squid, shrimp)

Some price comparisons of cruises and zoos:
Mitre cruise: $40
Real journeys:
Bookme: 8:45 $56, 3p $81
Jucy to Tasman: bookme: $42, 75, 79, 45, 9am 2hr, rest 1.5, Website: 50, 78, 89, 70
Premiumbookme: 11;30p 59, 3:30p 55
Ecotour: $45 11 or 3p
Go Orange: 9a $59, 12:30p: 95, 3p: 85
Bookme: $49, 79, 69
Kayak 4-5hr: $159
Scenic Pacific: $199
Get your guide 1.75h: 9, 11:30: $55 (bf), 10:30am: $89, 3:15: $75
Milford Sound Encounter Nature Cruise
More from Southern Discoveries $80, 75 : small boat, 2.25h
Whittaker's hokey pokey $6 pack 180g
Kiwi chocolate 8.99 120g
Orana wildlife: $36
Willowbank wildlife reserve: $32
Queenstown kiwi: $55

Queenstown, Wanaka. New Zealand South Island

We flew from Auckland to Queenstown.  There we rented a car for our road trip around the South Island.  

Garden beach walk: pleasant, view of water and town (not a must do)

Skyline luge: gondola and then 2 luge rides for $56. Totally worth it and super fun with great views!  Also possible to hike up, but 1hr and then $15/luge ride. 

After Queenstown, we drove to Wanaka.  We ate Big Fig for dinner: healthy food.

Beach walk around Lake Wanaka was very nice with beautiful blooming yellow and purple lupin flowers during late Nov. Actually not native to NZ.

The solo Wanaka tree in the water is the most photographed tree in NZ.

One day, we did a very challenging hike: Roy's peak, a 7min drive from Wanaka.  We started at  9:20am.  At 10:50, we were halfway up.  

At 12:10p, we reached the best viewpoint. There was a long line (1 hr+) to take picture at viewpoint so we proceeded to the top.  We found a similar view near toilet. At 1:20p, we reached Roy's peak. Changed from sunny to rainy in 10 min. 

 We spent 20min taking photos at top.  Then we went back to viewpoint, and there was only a 15min wait to take picture.

At 4:20p, we reached our car again. Brought 2.5L water, drank 1.75L.

Don't miss Lindis pass on drive to Mount Cook.

Twizel: Fishtail Restaurant.  We ate Mango lassi (delicious), Fishtail goat curry, Fish malabari (fish with grated coconut in a cashew nuts sauce).

Auckland, New Zealand North Island

I had a conference in Auckland, so we stayed there few days. I would have much rather spent my time at other cities!  YW only had free time in the late afternoons, after the conference ended.

One evening, we visited Mt Eden (Maingawhau): ancestral mountain, volcanic cone. Grassy crater, view of Auckland. It also has views of Mt Hobson, Mt St John, One Tree Hill, Big King : all volcanic craters. Looks like grassy hills now.   

We ate Baab Korean cuisine: bulgogi hot plate. Yum! ANd Suzaku ramen: Tokyo ramen. Ok. 1 foodcourt has all these types of authentic food: Vietnamese, Malaysian, Indian, sushi, ramen Japanese, Chinese, Taiwanese, pizza, Korean, Hawaiian

One evening, we visited the small town of Davenport, which has this view of Rangitoto Island. It also had Victoria Theater: NZ's oldest theater.  

The hill has a 26 ton disappearing gun. Can hit Rangitoto island where practice targets installed. Fired once, complained cracked windows of nearby houses, so never again.

During one day, AB went to Rangitoto island (a volcanic mountain). 

The highlight of our time in the North Island was our day trip to the Glowing Adventures Waitomo caves. YW found a deal online, so we got a private tour of the caves.    

Wai = water, Tomo =hole. 2000 caves here. 

Glow worms are larvae of fungus gnat, has 4 life cycles: adult lays eggs, hatch 3wk later. larvae glowworms grow for 6-9mo, hang loosely from damp sheltered surface in horizontal tube made from flexible silk and mucus, when mature become pupa for 2 wks, emerge as adult fly. Adult: No mouth, only mate so die after laying eggs for 3 days.  Glow from a kidney-like organ. Chemical reaction takes a lot of oxygen so airbag surrounding organ and reflector to concentrate eggs. To attract other insects (food). 

AB was surprised at how the narrow the passages were.  Our boots were soaked, but the site provided clothes which kept us warm and comfortable.  It was one of the most memorable and unique experiences we have had!

NZ only had 1 mammal. Now possum and rats destroying native animals.

Mangapohue River: 500meter, fall down 3km. Then goes to Auckland

Oyster fossils: 30 mill years ago.

Cave: 1/2 km, 3.5 km total. 

Hangi shop: chicken and lamb, pumpkin, karuka? -traditionally cooked hot buried underground for hours.

Papatoetoe night market: Conny's kitchen pork belly delicious! 

Must try NZ chocolate: Whittaker's. Flavors to try: Boysenberry and hokey pokey

Sydney, Australia

Day 1: We arrived early in the morning.  After the long plane ride, we were tired, so we checked in to our hotel and napped for a bit.  We stayed in the city, pretty safe and clean area.  

We found a place nearby to eat fish and chips (Paddy's Market) - a giant open air market.  

Then we headed for the Sydney opera house, which AB was most excited to see.  From nearby, it's tough to picture the grandeur of the building.  Going inside requires a tour, which we did not do.

The area around the opera house has a large Botanical garden.  We saw many unique trees and plants there.

In the garden, the Mrs. Mackerie chair was used by an early woman settler to overlook the harbor.  

In the afternoon, we took a ferry across the harbor to the north part of the city.   We saw Manly beach, and walked along an old army encampment (memorial walk) to Fairfax lookout.  This walk was recommended by AB's college friend.  The sights on this walk weren't as incredible as what we saw on the rest of the trip.  But it was nice to get away from the crowds on the Harbour area.   

We ate dinner at a restaurant in Sydney's large Chinatown/Koreatown area, which was hard to find.

Day 2: Instead of going to the larger and more popular Sydney Zoo, we chose Featherdale Wildlife.  It was a great decision!  Featherdale had only native Australian animals, so we could focus on seeing creatures we had never seen before, instead of all the familiar animals at a typical zoo.  Also, it was not  as crowded, so we got up close looks and personal encounters with these animals!

Southern cassowary: heaviest of Australian birds, killer claws. 

Wombat: keeps young in pouch for 6mo

Crocodile: 1k lb, can be up to 7m 1 ton. Nuka. Kill 4-5 times a year...sustain for several months. Brumation April, stay in warmed water. 2 beats per minute. 10-12 hours hold breath under water. 60 mph water. Tear apart and swallow whole. Control pest species that get out of control (kangaroo, foxes, ferrel pigs).  Big Crocks have good navigation even if moved 1k mile away. Nuka breeding facility: killed 2 females. Babies: less than 30 cm, 1% chance survival. 

We paid extra for this Koala encounter.  They bellow: deep voice to indicate territory. If they hear response, will continue bellowing. Live 6-10 yrs. Marsupials not bears. 18-20hr sleep/day. Eat half kilo eucalyptus per day.  

Kangaroo

Tasmanian devil: look fierce but can't kill anything. Eat carrion (decaying meat of dead animal). Disease that's killing them: start pimple, spread until can't eat, die, no cure. Marsupials.

Quokka: southwestern corner, explorers thought they were large rats. Named island rottnest

Echidna: eat 100k termites, half foot sticky tongue. Hibernate in winter. Pheromone: echidna train...who is behind get to breed. Produce Eggs. Temporary pouch, 10 day, jelly Bean sized baby. Mammary pad sweat out milk. Nursery burrow when baby develops spikes. Babies named puggle. Ball and dig feet into ground: impossible to get out. Predator: dingoes, cars. Can move wrist 360 degrees, dig and flip them. Can't identify if male or female from outside. 

Speckled flying fox: fruitarian, largest bat, only mammal that can take flight. They help spread seeds. No rabies in Australia. Lisa virus. Can't fly directly from ground, have to climb up tree and glide. Give birth upside down, have to catch baby with wings. Sometimes fall and get eaten. 

Barking owl, Red neck pademelon, Little penguin, Wallaby, Bilby, Grilled neck lizard,  Shingle back lizard (or two headed), Potoroo, Sulpher crested cockatoo, Rainbow lorikeet.

Goana: return months later to termite mound where lay eggs. 

Tree kangaroo: 50 ft jump.

Black neck stork: clap beak together to communicate. 

Ghost bats: carnivorous. Smallest bat

Red tailed black cockatoo, Australian bustrard 

Common death adder: most venomous snake in Australia

Inland Taipan: world's most venomous snake

Laughing kookaburra had an unusual voice

Great pelican: 13 L beak volume

Crimson Rosella: monotonous, destroy other female nest. 

In the afternoon, we visited Coogee beach in south Sydney, and walked past Gordan's Bay.  The Bronte to Bondi beach coastal walk was highly recommended, and it was as beautiful as described.  It was incredible to have this natural scenery so accessible to the city.

Surprisingly, there were cemeteries along this walk.  Bondi beach means "tumbling water".  

For dinner, near the Harbour area at Pony on the Rock. We ate seared kangaroo, beetroot tartare, pepperberry dressing, raspberries.  We also tried Spatchcock (chicken), crocodile tail, ginger and shallot yoghurt, chilli Bean oil. It was interesting to try these new foods, but they were not especially tasty.

Day 3: We were not familiar with the Harbour bridge before visiting.  But it was so beautiful spanning the blue water.  

We visited a bridge pylon, which contained a small museum.  The bridge took 60+ years to decide to build and 7 years to build. 134m high (about 40 stories), cable tie backs held 2 halves of bridge up while being built. Locked together with a pin. Cats lived up in pylons for a time. 10 mill GBP to build. 16 people died during construction. Considered greatest steel bridge in the world (load capacity, width, span combo), 3rd longest. 

From the pylon, we got our best view of the Sydney Opera House.  There was a very expensive option to climb the actual bridge to the top, but we heard the views were the same from there.

We ate at Dove and olive in Surry hills: Chicken schnitzel with bacon and cheese add on (like chicken parmigian).  Meat pie: chicken, leek, mushrooms

AB had heard that Sydney was one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and he was not disappointed!