Friday, June 4, 2021

Iceland Days 1-4

Day 1:  Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park

We got COVID tests at the airport, and picked up our Camper van from "Campervan Iceland".  Thingvellir is between the American and European tectonic plates, which move apart 2cm/year. 

Thingvellir was the site of ancient Iceland Parliament, Alþing (Althing) from 900 to 1700's.  The gathering had a chosen Law Speaker. In 1000 AD, the Law Speaker Thorgeir decided Icelanders accept Christianity, but could continue worshiping Norse gods, dispose of unwanted children, and eat horsemeat in secret. From 1200 to 1944, other Scandinavian countries took control of Iceland.  In 1944, Iceland became independent.

Thingvallavatn (nearby): Iceland's largest lake, formed from techtonic plate shifting, very diverse biome. 

We camped at Grundarfjörður campground.  We saw Grundarfoss waterfall just before.  The evening was super windy and rainy, hard to even go to bathroom. The van was shaking and loud the entire night.

Day 2: Snæfellsnes Peninsula
We woke up at 8am, but our car wouldn't start!  The car battery died bc our lights were left on.  Called, walked around town 2 hours, no one has jumper cables! We called the campground again accidentally, and the manager picked up!  She gave us a jump. Very nice people from Minnesota gave ride back to the campground from town.  Our clothes were soaked through.

Kirkjufellsfoss
Iceland's most famous waterfall, a short walk from a parking lot.  Distinctive mountain (kirkjufell "arrowhead") in the background. 
GOT spoiler: Hound's vision of beyond the wall; when they go capture a dead walker; also where children of the woods create first dead walker. 


Really wet, but so many waterfalls on the mountain side!  Bæjarfoss, Kerlingarfoss. 

Saxhóll Crater: lava cone formed 3k-4k yrs ago. 


View opposite of Snæfellsjökull active volcano (1446m), inspiration for Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth.

Lóndrangar View Point: pair of rock pinnacles made from volcanic basalt, hewn out from softer surrounding rock through erosion. Remains of a crater. View of lava cliffs full of nesting seabirds! 

Hellnar beach: 
Valasnos freestanding rock 


Badstofa: colorful cave.

Troll statue: important part of an icelandic saga

Bjarnarfoss: beautiful waterfall with 10 other ones ones to the left. 



Day 3: Northern Iceland 
Yay! We had beautiful weather!   On this day, we saw 4/5 different landscapes. 

Reykjafoss: A quite hard to find waterfall.  We needed to follow very specific directions from a website guide.  There was a hot pot here also.


Godasfoss: "Waterfall of the Gods" because pagan chieftain threw all his idols into it when Iceland adopted Christianity. Spectacular waterfall; 12 meters high, 30m wide. 


Aldeyjarfoss: Most beautiful waterfall on the Skjalfandafljot River, framed with unique basalt columns.  The last 3km supposed to require 4 wheel drive. We drove most of the way and walked the last 1 mile, where there was a patch of snow.  After parking lot, go down toward waterfall on steepish hike for 10 min. 



Dimmuborgir: Located between Europe and American tectonic plates. Formed from gigantic volcanic eruption. Pseudo craters formed from steam explosions when lava flowed into Lake Myvatn. Looks like ancient citadel.



Grjótagjá: Lava cave with thermal spring. The Jon Snow and Ygritte cave (GOT reference)


View of Hverfjall volcano (left): GOT beyond the wall filmed there. 



Námafjall Hverir Viewpoint: fumaroles and mud pots. 100C here, at 1000m deep, 200C. Hydrogen sulfide used to make gunpowder, now just smells like rotten eggs. 



We stayed at Hvammstangi campsite: very nice, clean, kitchen with stove and heated common area. Also saw family of 4 camping with a 7 month old! 

Day 4: Eastern Iceland
Dettifoss: most powerful waterfall in Europe at 45m high, 100m wide




0.6km to the right: Selfoss which is an elegant horseshoe shaped fall. The west side is easy to get to with paved road (20min), but a lot of mist. The east you can really get up close to the fall (45 min dirt road). 


Rjúkandi falls along the way. Too rainy to hike to it, but along the road saw so many waterfalls on the left. 

Saw reindeers!  I've never seen them before! 

Turf houses (so cute!): operational as sheephouses until 1970's. Turf on the roof for insulation.




 
Vatnsskaro road: Beautiful drive over the mountain and down to the ocean.





(Stóruro: shaped by recent Ice Age glaciation)

Borgarfjarðarhöfn: puffin paradise! 



We ate dinner at a campsite and met a couple biking around Iceland! 

Gufufoss: waterfall along the road. Also many other small waterfalls coming from both sides of mountains. 



Seydisfjordur: cute town in the fjordland, where ferries arrive from Denmark. 


One of the many fjords on the east coast: 



Berunes HI Hostel & Camp: 1500 ISK per person. Shower, kitchen +stove, inside dining, and 3 toilets. Very clean and great views! 

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